Twixt France and Spain

Excerpt

CHAPTER I.

PAU.

Trains and Steamers—Bordeaux and its Hotels—Lamothe—Morcenx—
Dax—Puyoo—Orthez—First impressions of Pau—The Hotels and
Pensions—Amusements—Pension Colbert—Making up parties for the
Pyrenees—The Place Royale and the view—The Castle of Pau and its
approaches—Origin of name—Historical notes—The Towers—Visiting
hours—The Tapestries—The Wonderful Bedstead—The Delusive
Tortoiseshell Cradle—The "Tour de la Monnaie"—The Park—The
Billeres Plains—Tennis and Golf—The Route de Billeres and the
Billeres Woods—French Sportsmen—Hunting—Racing—Lescar and its
old Cathedral—Fontaine de Marnieres—The Bands—The Pare Beaumont
—Ballooning—The Casino—Polo—The Cemetery—The Churches of St.
Martin and St. Jacques—The "Old World and the New"—Rides and
Drives—to Betharram—The Start—Peasants and their ways—Vines
trained by the roadside—Sour Grapes—The "March of the Men of
Garlic"—Coarraze—Henry IV.'s Castle—Betharram—The Ivied Bridge
—The Inn—The "Via Crucis"—Assat and Gelos—The Coteaux—
Perpignaa—Sketching with a Donkey-cart—Over the Coteaux to Gan—
The Drive to Pietat—Picnicking and Rejected Attentions—The
Church—Feather Moss—Bizanos—Carnival time—"Poor Pillicoddy"—
"Idyllic Colbert."

Few Winter Resorts have gained a greater celebrity than Pau, and its popularity yearly increases. Fifty years ago its English visitors might have been counted by tens; to-day they must be reckoned by thousands. But this is only during the winter and spring; in summer it is almost entirely deserted by foreigners, few people in fact, unless compelled by circumstances, staying after May has passed into June.

For many reasons it has become a favourite resort for invalids, an important one being, its exceedingly accessible position. Notwithstanding that it is 776 miles distant from London, fewer changes are requisite than for many a journey of less than a quarter of the distance. The quickest way from London is via Dover, Calais, Paris, Bordeaux and Dax; and as a through sleeping carriage can be obtained from Paris to Pau, that part of the journey is anything but formidable. For those who prefer the sea route, the fine boats of the Pacific Steam Navigation Company which start from Liverpool are the most preferable conveyance, though the less expensive steamers belonging to the General Steam Navigation Company, sailing from London, are comfortable enough in fine weather. The former land their passengers at Pauillac, whence they proceed to Bordeaux by tender or train; but the latter boats, being smaller, can come right up to Bordeaux, which is a decided advantage.

Though the third port in France, Bordeaux can certainly not be recommended as a stopping-place unless necessity requires it, for the hotel-keepers generally succeed in reaping a rich harvest from travellers passing through.

The Hotel de Nantes is the nearest to the quay, but the Hotel Richelieu will be found more moderate and more comfortable. In the town, the grand Hotel de France has the best reputation, but "birds of passage" have apparently to pay for it, whereas old stagers concur in saying that for gentlemen—especially those who appreciate a good dinner—the best place is the Hotel de Bayonne....